I love, love, love historical sites, especially the kind that work their way into your consciousness and stay with you long after you’ve left.

That’s how I feel about West Baden Springs Hotel, a beautifully restored hidden gem in southern Indiana. Built just before the turn of the last century, it was once the place to visit for health and rest. In fact, it was on a shortlist of must-see places for tourists traveling to the US from Europe, and it frequently hosted the wealthiest and most well-known (sometimes notorious) celebrities of the time–including Al Capone and several professional baseball teams! The Depression years were hard on the resort, though, and by the turn of this century, it was nearly derelict. A group of conservationists worked tirelessly for several years to restore it, and the result is nothing short of spectacular.

We’ve visited the hotel a few times through the years, always marveling at the breathtaking atrium and enjoying the gardens and surrounding areas. When my husband asked what I wanted to do for my fortieth birthday, I knew instantly: I wanted to stay at West Baden! Adding to my personal connection to the place, I had set a pivotal chapter in my first novel at the resort, and I wanted to experience it for myself.

Thankfully, I happened to be in a relatively good stretch when we visited, so I didn’t need to make use of all the mobility and accessibility features on offer. But I’m always on the lookout for them when we travel, so that I can pass on helpful tips and ideas to you all.

Accessibility and Check-In

Because the hotel is historic in nature, not all spaces are wheelchair accessible. That being said, West Baden is particularly open and spacious, and more easily conducive to wheelchair use than French Lick. There are elevators to take guests to each level of the hotel, and level entry at the driveway access to the left side of the hotel (just before the parking lot). Being set in a valley, there are some inclines to contend with, especially in the parking lot.

Check-in is in what used to be the main entrance (now moved to the side, as I said above, for accessibility purposes. If you’re entering from that side door, you can traverse the atrium to get to the check-in desk). This lobby area is stunning in its own right, with an enormous domed ceiling, beautiful stained glass French doors, historic vault, and gold gilding everywhere. There are little tables set up so that you can just sit and enjoy the view, or even play a game of checkers or chess. Off of that space is a small, quiet library that’s a great escape from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the resort. There’s also an historic elevator–the smallest on offer–off of this space (a larger, more accessible elevator is available just a little ways down the hallway).

The hotel sits in a bit of a valley, and less than a mile from what used to be a competing hotel (now owned by the same people), the French Lick Springs Hotel. There are paved, level paths between the two hotels, but there’s also a fun little complimentary trolley that can take you from place to place. You will need to step up into the trolley, but it helps to save some steps along the way. There is also frequent regular service in a traditional shuttle bus between the hotels and to nearby town attractions.

Hotel Amenities

A curving hallway runs the perimeter of the atrium, punctuated by small boutiques, coffee shops, meeting spaces, etc. If you’re a history lover like me, be sure to check out the artwork on the walls. The resort has done a phenomenal job of preserving its past through photographs and postcards of West Baden’s early days. In addition to hosting professional baseball teams for their spring training, holding various international conventions, and being home-away-from-home to the rich and famous, West Baden served as a military hospital for a period during World War I. Its owners were connected to Ed Ballard, who owned a well-known traveling circus. In 1918, the elegant atrium was converted into a circus for the benefit of the wounded soldiers housed there–including elephants, who reportedly had to crawl through the openings to the atrium on their knees!

Some of the shops are a little small and would be tight for wheelchair use. The Xanadu Coffee and Creamery, a coffee shop/ice cream shop located just down from the check-in area, makes waffle cones throughout the day, making the whole hallway smell absolutely amazing! While that particular shop isn’t able to accommodate allergies because of limited space, they do have coffee on offer (and there are other eating options elsewhere on the resort).

There is a spa on the main level, and in the lower level, a stunning pool room with pool lifts in both the pool and hot tub.

All of the guest suites were remodeled during the renovation, making them much more spacious than the original tiny hotel rooms. There are rooms designed specifically for accessibility, but even their regular rooms have fairly good space (though not necessarily grab bars, turning radius by toilets, etc). We stayed in a king suite overlooking the atrium and it was absolutely magical!

On-Site Attractions

Aside from wandering the halls of the hotel, or perhaps taking the historical tour, the grounds are worth exploring. Originally set up as a sunken garden to house the various mineral springhouses, the gardens now feature criss-crossing brick paved walkways tucked amid gorgeous flower beds. Two springhouses remain, and throughout the property there are great historical markers with pictures of the original buildings. Beyond the gardens, in a wide open space, is the site of what was once an enormous two-story covered track. Cyclists and pedestrians could walk laps in the shelter of the upper level, while the lower level allowed guests to ride on horseback. The open center hosted spring training for professional baseball teams, as well as various other events throughout the years. Sadly, the track was destroyed in a storm nearly a century ago, but just recently, conservationists have laid out a gravel path that follows its original footprint. Along the way are several historical markers that have fascinating information. They’re also working on restoring what was once an “avenue of trees” leading from the track back to the hotel. It will be gorgeous once it’s finished, and all easily wheelchair accessible.

The grounds surrounding the resort also have some great nature trails. Some are more level than others, but the trails between the two hotels are especially easy to navigate and full of peaceful nature (and a lot of very friendly deer!).

There is horseback riding available, with beautiful horse trails through the woods. The stables can be accessed by road, or via hiking trails from the resort.

The neighboring resort, French Lick, is home to a large casino and frequent entertainment. As I mentioned, you can drive to the resort by car, access it via the sidewalks or trails between the hotels, or take one of the shuttles or trolleys (which are complimentary). French Lick also has several small shops and stores on site, and a bowling alley.

Restaurants

There are several restaurants on site, in addition to the ice cream/coffee shop. We were there mid-week, so only one or two of the restaurants were open. I use the Find Me Gluten Free app whenever we travel to find safe places to eat. There weren’t many reviews for the hotel’s restaurants, but some users did say Sinclair’s Restaurant was safe. It was closed while we were there, but we had lunch at Ballard’s Bar, in the atrium. I was very specific about my celiac disease, as I always am, and the waiter was knowledgeable and able to point me to safe options. I had a delicious strawberry and spinach salad under the skylights that was a highlight of the trip!

The French Lick resort has several upscale restaurants that received good feedback on the app too, although also just a small number of reviews.

The area immediately surrounding the resort didn’t have a lot of options, but 33 Brick Street received some good reviews on Find Me Gluten Free. Our timing didn’t work out to eat there, but I would happily try it in the future!

For the rest of our meals, we packed our own food. It’s worth noting that although our room had a fridge, it didn’t have a microwave. We had packed freezer meals for our first dinner there, and without a microwave, we ended up trying to thaw and heat them with the blow dryer in the bathroom! Not the most effective, but good for a laugh and a funny memory!

Rest and Relaxation

The real beauty of the West Baden Springs Hotel is how peaceful and relaxing it is. Unlike French Lick, which is often busy and bustling with tourists, West Baden feels like a calm, spacious oasis. The wide porches have all kinds of rocking chairs that look out on the grounds–a perfect place to sit and read a book.

The atrium is magical at all hours of the day and night–from sunrise, which floods the space with golden light, right through to nighttime, when the Tiffany chandelier overhead is lit up with colorful LED lighting.

It’s worth noting two things: several months before our stay, the hotel had sustained hail damage that destroyed many of the glass panels in the atrium ceiling. Work was underway to replace them, with teams starting work by eight o’clock each morning. Because of the vaulted ceiling and large empty spaces beneath, the construction noise echoed and was magnified throughout the hotel, so that hammer strikes almost sounded like gunshots! This is a short-term problem that will be resolved quickly, but it did make it difficult to sleep in. Similarly, and more long-term, the vault of the atrium sometimes tempts guests to test the acoustics. We were awakened both nights by visitors shouting toward the ceiling for the sake of hearing their own echo. The noise was short-lived, and I’m sure cut short by hotel staff, and wouldn’t be an issue at all in rooms that face outward toward the grounds. It felt like a small price to pay to overlook that stunning space.

Nearby Attractions

The region around West Baden has some great attractions, including an historic rail line with fun events such as a Wild West hold-up, fall foliage tours, Polar Express ride, etc.

The hotel isn’t far from Hoosier National Forest, a stunning nature area with trails of varying difficulty.

There are many caves and caverns to explore in the area, either on foot or by boat ride.

West Baden is also within a 1-2 hour drive of Bloomington and Indianapolis in Indiana, and just over 2 hours to Lexington, Kentucky, with even more attractions to explore.

All in all, I cannot recommend this hotel enough. It’s been at the top of my list for several years and remains one of my favorite places on the planet! If you’re looking for a peaceful, unique, historic place to escape, I can’t think of anywhere better!