My husband and I have been dreaming and talking about taking a trip to Austin for years. In fact, we’ve talked about it for so long that our kids don’t remember a time when we didn’t have an “Austin fund,” a coffee tin with spare change, on our dresser. Through the years we added and removed money, set tentative dates and cancelled them, and added to the list of things we hoped to do once we finally got there. Sometimes the best trips are the ones we plan and dream about for a long time.

This spring, we were finally able to get there–actually, our first week-long trip away together since before we had kids! It was everything we hoped it would be, and more. I’m so thankful that after waiting for so long to visit, I was in a fairly good stretch health-wise while we were away. No major flares meant a little more freedom than we’d hoped to explore and enjoy this quirky city. Still, we were ever on the lookout (as we always are) for all of the places that were accessible and celiac-safe. Here are a few of our favorites.

Accommodations

As luck (and timing) would have it, the hotel we really wanted was booked for the first night we were in town. Which meant that we got to check out two local hotels!

On our first night, we stayed downtown at The Omni. If you’re looking for a beautiful, swanky hotel, you can’t do much better than this. Everything about it is gorgeous, modern, and sophisticated. The rooms either face out onto the city street, or onto the beautiful stories-high lobby. Ours faced the lobby, which actually made it feel even more like a “big city” experience. There is a restaurant on site, but they were closed by the time we got in to the hotel. The hotel bar made for a great evening spot to sit and sip drinks after we’d walked around the downtown area, though. I highly recommend the basil grapefruit martini!

For the rest of our vacation, we stayed in East Austin at the Frances Modern Inn. It captured exactly what we hoped our Austin stay would be: a little quirky, a little artsy, and very cool. Our room was very bijou–stylish and cozy. We had a beautiful bathroom and a small living area, plus the best window seat I’ve ever seen (the perfect spot to sit and eat, say, sandwiches made from leftover BBQ)! As a side note, we usually travel with a healthy stash of gluten free picnic foods, which takes the stress out of trying to find a safe place when we’re hungry!

^{A hotel room with floral papered walls with black background and orange, green, and white foliage and flowers. A lucite circle chandelier hangs from a dark orange ceiling. The floors are polished concrete with scattered Persian-style rugs. The wall behind the bed is covered in blonde wood with a brass wall light and built-in nightstand. A caramel-colored leather padded headboard is attached to the wooden wall, and the bed is dressed in white linens with scattered pillows. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

_{The writer sits on a padded golden-colored window seat before a large round window. Heavy moss green drapes hang on either side of the window, and a white pillow rests behind her head. The walls are dark orange. The writer, a Caucasian woman with brown hair pulled up in a clip, wears a red floral blouse and black shorts, and holds a sandwich. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

Being Texas, there was indoor/outdoor living potential everywhere, and that included at the hotel. Just outside our room was a beautiful balcony area with comfortable seating, refreshments (including an espresso machine that made the most amazing flat whites), and books to read. It was so very cool, and so relaxing.

_{The author sits on an upholstered white patio couch with three tapestry pillows. A mural on the wall behind her shows tropical leaves and plants and a swooping tropical bird. She wears a yellow dress and blue button shirt tied at her waist, round black frame classes, with curly long brown hair pulled back on one side. She holds a cup of coffee and smiles. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

The hotel staff were absolutely amazing (including the resident outdoor black cat, Louie). Even before our trip, they got in touch to ask if we were celebrating a special occasion and to see how they could make our trip more memorable. We told them we planned to visit some BBQ places and were celebrating a very belated anniversary. They had two folding lawn chairs waiting for us in our room to use when we lined up for restaurant(s), and a bottle of sparkling wine in the room fridge! They had left a hand-written note to welcome us, and recommended taking our drinks up to the rooftop patio to watch the sunset over the city. We took them up on the offer, and it was one of the more memorable evenings of our trip.

_{A rooftop patio with white walls, overlooking the downtown Austin cityscape. A long wooden table is surrounded by tall chairs, with two amber goblets and two books, “Code Girls,” and a blue Stephen King book, on the tabletop. The sky is pale pink and blue with golden sunset rays. Photo by Livable by Design.}

_{The author and her husband stand on the same rooftop patio, with the blurred cityscape visible in the background. The man is Caucasian, dark-haired with a beard, wearing a buttoned short sleeve navy shirt. The woman is Caucasian with a navy, red,and blue floral tank top, red sunglasses, a navy headband, and hair in a ponytail. They are both smiling, and sun rays streak the photo. Photo by Livable by Design.}

Food

Austin has become a foodie destination! When we first started dreaming about this trip many years ago, celiac disease was nowhere on our radar. In some ways, I wish we’d been able to visit back then. It would have been so much fun to eat anywhere we wanted without a second thought. But there was no shortage of great food in spite of celiac disease! And being a somewhat “hip,” up-and-coming city means that in some ways there were more safe food options than I normally have to choose from.

Franklin Barbecue

Full disclosure: Franklin Barbecue is the reason we made the trip to Austin. My husband, a fourth grade teacher, had been corresponding with Franklin for several years, including having his students send letters after a restaurant fire a number of years back and Zooming with Aaron Franklin (a James Beard award-winning chef, author, and TV host) himself at the end of one school year. So, of course, a visit to the restaurant itself was top priority (as well as some dreams of meeting Aaron Franklin and his amazing staff).

_{The author and her husband stand on a sidewalk under the Franklin Barbecue restaurant sign. The sign is oblong in shape, black, with retro lettering reading “Franklin” in teal green, and “Barbecue” in yellow. A building is seen next to them with teal green lower walls and white with black metal elsewhere. The author wears a yellow dress with blue shirt tied at the waist, sandals, and sunglasses; her husband wears a black Franklin Barbecue shirt and dark shorts. The author’s arm is around her husband’s waist and both are smiling. Photo credit: Livable by Design}.

The first thing you need to know about Franklin is that it is extremely popular, and they sell out daily. We arrived at 7 am and were already about tenth in line! The line forms just outside the door, winds down the entry ramp, and all the way around the corner! If you don’t have your own chair, camp chairs become available (in limited supply) around 8:30 am. Mid-morning, the dining area doors are open to provide access to bathrooms, merchandise, and to allow customers to purchase drinks (there are portable bathrooms around the back of the building that can be used until then). An employee comes out to each person in line to get a tally of what they are planning to order (the menu is available online). This is not an official order, but a way for them to ensure they have enough meat on hand for everyone in line (again, once they sell out, they sell out!). At 11 am, the doors open.

The line moves fairly quickly. Customers are asked to stick to the quantities they gave outside and can order drinks, as well. There is limited seating inside and outside.

Although there is ramp access to the restaurant, it’s worth noting that this is where customers line up to wait their turn to enter. If you need wheelchair access, it’s probably best to come early to get a place in line near the ramp. Likewise, when leaving the restaurant, it might be a little difficult to navigate if customers are still lined up on the ramp. That being said, Franklin prides itself on being a friendly place, and their customers are also typically extremely friendly. We spent our time in line chatting and laughing with others and felt like we left with a new group of friends. I suspect their clientele would be extremely accommodating and willing to allow access if needed even if that space is occupied, but it’s worth noting ahead of time.

_{A butcher paper-covered tray holds several types of smoked meat: pulled pork, brisket, smoked turkey breast, ribs, and a sausage. There are also two cans of sparkling water.}

All of the meats themselves are gluten free. The prep space where they are cut up is also typically gluten free, although they prepare sandwiches right next to that area. If you have celiac disease, be specific about what you need (such as changed gloves, etc). All of the sauces are also safe except for the espresso sauce. We got a “sampler,” meaning we ordered a little of each kind of meat. I have to tell you, I don’t even like turkey typically, but I couldn’t get enough of the smoked turkey breast!

And, in case you are wondering about the conclusion of the Aaron Franklin long-distance relationship with my husband, one of his staff members came out to find us in line and asked if we were the Barcalows. They brought us in to the dining room to meet Aaron before the restaurant opened, and with the excitement on Aaron Franklin’s face, you would have thought my husband was the celebrity! We’ve never met a kinder, more down-to-earth person. He made the trip for us!!

_{The author’s husband, Micah, is wearing a black Franklin Barbecue shirt and shorts, poses next to Aaron Franklin, with dark hair, dark rimmed glasses, black Elder t-shirt, and gray shorts. Aaron has one arm around the husband’s shoulders and both men smile. The Franklin Barbecue dining room is seen in the background. Photo credit: Livable by Design.}

Uptown Sports Club

Aaron Franklin had actually opened a new restaurant about a week before we made our trip to Austin, Uptown Sports Club, so of course we had to check it out for ourselves! It’s a super cool place with a New Orleans vibe, just a few blocks from Franklin Barbecue in East Austin. The menu is full of New Orleans-inspired dishes (many of them incorporating smoked meats from Franklin). As of the time of my writing, I’m not sure how safe their food is for celiac, although given the care and attention at Franklin Barbecue, I suspect they will have some safe options once they get established.

In the meantime, though, they do have a nice drink menu on offer in a beautiful setting. There is seating both indoors and outdoors (on the southern-style porch out front, or in the patio area out back). The restaurant has a low-threshold entry and bathrooms off the back patio that are accessible through glass doors. There are a variety of seating options, from tables to booths. The tables would be most accommodating for wheelchair users.

_{The author sits in a black booth seat, with curly long brown hair, dark rimmed round glasses, yellow dress, and blue button shirt. A menu sits on the table in front of her, and her hand rests on a drink in a tall glass with ice, a straw, and a dried rose bud. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

And if you’re hoping to spot a celebrity, you might just get lucky like we did and get to spend a little quality time with Aaron Franklin himself!

Nixta Taqueria

When we ran into Aaron Franklin at Uptown, he actually gave us some celiac-safe restaurant recommendations, and Nixta Taqueria was one of them. They serve tacos made from incredible, fresh ingredients, created by a James Beard award-winning chef. All of their menu items are gluten free and celiac-safe, as well as many of their drinks.

To order, you’ll need to go around to the left of the building, to the outdoor seating area. Orders are taken from a bar on a deck. Although I didn’t see wheelchair access to the deck, I do think they would accommodate customers and meet you on ground level or at a table if needed. Being an outdoor area, the ground is a little uneven, with a slight slope to the grassy area where there are picnic tables for seating, as well as a handful of traditional tables that could accommodate a wheelchair user.

We were all about embracing new experiences on this trip, so when it came time to order, we asked the server what she recommended. She said hands-down she would choose the duck taco and the yellowfin tuna tostada–neither of which we would normally have ordered on our own. We added a couple of other tacos and some drinks to the order. They were AMAZING! The duck was really good, but the tuna was the clear winner. It was definitely worth the experience!

_{The author sits at a pink picnic table with three melamine plates with various tacos on the table in front of her. There are also two drinks on the table. She is seated in an outdoor area. Photo credit: Livable by Design.}

Wilder Wood

Not too far from where we stayed, there was a dedicated gluten-free restaurant. The online menu intrigued me, because they offered onion rings–something I hadn’t been able to enjoy since my diagnosis. So of course they were on my list!

The restaurant sits up on a hill, so access from the sidewalk out front is by a set of winding stairs. However, if you park in the parking lot behind, there is wheelchair access through the door on that side of the building. All of the tables can accommodate a wheelchair user. The menu is fully gluten- and soy-free, and they are a scratch kitchen and happy to work with any other dietary restrictions. They’re not as hip as some of the other up-and-coming foodie places in Austin, but definitely worth a stop if you are in East Austin.

We ordered the much-anticipated onion rings (which were amazing!), avocado cream enchiladas, and a buffalo chicken sandwich. All of them were really good (and after a miscommunication with one another before ordering, we ended up with almost two full orders of onion rings, so we really got to sample them. It pays to communicate clearly with your spouse, friends).

_{The author, wearing a headband and ponytail and red floral button-up blouse, sits before a platter of onion rings. She holds a bite to her mouth and smiles down at the place. There are windows beside and behind her, one with vines hanging, and the other with a blue artistic armadillo. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

Torchy’s

If you’re at all familiar with Austin, you’ve probably heard of Torchy’s Tacos (in fact, you may have heard of them apart from Austin, since they’ve begun to open chains in many parts of the US). This is considered the original taco place, and comes highly rated by everyone we’ve heard talk about it. We spent a morning on South Congress, the hip shopping and restaurant district outside of downtown, and passed the original Torchy’s, and we couldn’t resist trying them.

They get somewhat mixed reviews on Find Me Gluten Free, my go-to resource for assessing restaurants. Some of their tacos appeared to be safe, and their chips, queso, and guac were all consistently rated safe. So I decided to roll the dice! In a small way–I stuck with chips.

Their chips and queso were incredible. I had actually ordered the guac, also good, but wished I’d done a full order of queso for myself because I could have easily wiped out my husband’s order that I “sampled.” He ordered a taco and said it was the best taco he’d ever eaten! I would recommend doing a little homework so that you know what’s safe ahead of time if you’re wanting to order a taco, and talking it over with the staff. And at the very least, enjoy some chips and queso.

They have a variety of seating options indoors and out, and all of them are fairly accessible as well. Plus, they just have a cool, fun Austin vibe!

_{The author’s husband, in navy blue button-down shirt, sits at a table in an outdoor seating area with red metal posts and geometric tiles. Black dishes of tortilla chips, queso, and a taco sit on the table in front of him. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

Gati Ice Cream

One of the things I miss about my pre-celiac days is the chance to eat ice cream. Even if the ice cream itself is gluten free, there’s often a high risk of cross-contamination from cones and toppings.

So one of the things we enjoyed in Austin was a fully gluten-free, dairy-free ice cream shop, Gati Ice Cream. Not only did they have an amazing array of delicious ice creams, but they also had a full complement of baked goods. We picked up two of their pumpkin chocolate chip muffins for breakfast the next day, and they were incredible too!

_{An ice cream shop is shown with a long seafoam tiled counter along the right side, with ice cream counter and variety of baked goods. Tables line the left side, with wooden benches and yellow wire chairs. Pendant lights hang throughout the restaurant, and windows line two walls. Photo credit: Guide to Austin Architecture}

Kreuz Market

If you’re looking for traditional smoked meat markets, Central Texas has so many destinations to check out, both in and outside of Austin. One of the original smoked meat places, Kreuz Market, is just a little over half an hour from Austin, in Lockhart, TX. The current building was built in the 1990s, but they’ve been smoking meat since the turn of the last century.

We made the drive out, and it was a fun experience! When you open the doors, you’ll be hit by the amazing smell of fire smoke, cooking meat, and old wood-frame building. I wish I could bottle the scent!

We failed to do our homework ahead of time and inadvertently ordered the one menu item that wasn’t safe for me, sausages. But in our retrospective investigation, it appears that all of their other smoked meats are celiac-safe. The meat is cooked in a separate room with massive pits, and served up away from all of the sides (which are ordered and served up in the next room, many of which are not celiac-safe). And if you are able to enjoy gluten foods, my husband said the sausage was incredible.

They have huge seating areas with a variety of arrangements that would be wheelchair accessible as well. We were there early in the morning, around 10 am, and had the place mostly to ourselves. It sounds like it can be fairly busy and crowded by later in the day.

_{Large black metal pits, or long boxes, for smoking meat are seen around the perimeter of a large building. A fire box with burning fire is seen on the closest end. There is a cement floor with areas of sawdust and brick walls. Photo credit: Livable by Design.}

_{The author’s husband, in light blue button-down shirt, cuts two sausage links on brown butcher paper and smiles as he looks down. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

Attractions

There are so many great things to do in Austin! We only enjoyed a sampling during our stay. Austin is a major music destination, with several huge festivals hosted throughout the year. Unless you are hoping to attend one of these festivals, I definitely recommend doing your homework and booking your trip during a time when there is not a festival, since the city will be packed to the limits!

That being said, there are opportunities to enjoy music year-round at a variety of venues (and in a variety of musical genres). We took walks a few times in the evenings and enjoyed hearing music from several different places. There was a blues performance across the street from our hotel the night we sat up on the rooftop patio. Several bars and clubs hosted live music that could be heard from the street. And there were countless concerts and live performances being advertised everywhere in town.

The Continental Club

One of the oldest and coolest venues is The Continental Club on South Congress. It’s a small space with a limited number of tables and a small dance floor, but it has a long history of hosting some incredible artists. They feature live music performances most nights, and often feature more than one musical group per night. Some performances include a cover charge; others are free. Their full schedule is available on their website so that you can plan ahead.

We happened to stop in one night in the time between the two featured performing groups, while a local band played. They were amazing! All of the tables were full, not surprisingly, but we made our way to the billiards room in the back and enjoyed watching the performers from behind the stage. There was some seating back there as well, and plenty of space for wheelchair users (the main audience area is a little snug).

_{A group of musical performers, as seen from just behind the stage. A blonde woman plays a fiddle, a brown-haired woman plays the keyboard, and a tall man in plaid shirt plays a bass. Part of a red drum kit is seen. There is a reddish hue to the lighting, and white string lights hang over the stage and along the walls. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

They do have a bar there, with some simple drink options, such as local bottled beer, whiskey/bourbon, and canned cider drinks. It was a very fun, hip Austin experience!

_{The author, in a grey sweatshirt, ponytail, and round glasses, smiles next to her husband, in blue button-down collared shirt. They both hold drinks and stand in a room with red walls, with various posters and pictures on the walls. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

Bats Under the Bridge

Another iconic Austin experience is to watch the bats emerge from under the Congress Avenue Bridge. When I say “the bats,” I mean up to tens of thousands of bats! Depending on the time of year, we’ve heard it can be a phenomenal sight to watch.

There are several vantage points from which to watch: standing on the bridge, from a kayak or rented boat on the river, from the outdoor patio area of the Four Seasons Hotel, or from the grassy observation area under the bridge. We opted for the latter.

The bats tend to emerge within 20-30 minutes of sunset. The crowds start gathering a good hour or so beforehand, although I would imagine you could come closer to sunset and still find a place. The grassy area is not the most wheelchair accessible; however, there are wide paved paths along the river surrounding the grass observation area that are fully accessible. Close to sunset, the boats on the river start shining red spotlights up under the bridge to make it easier to spot the bats.

We visited in early spring, and unfortunately the emergence was a little underwhelming. Still, it was a cool experience (and I imagine it would be pretty breathtaking at the height of the season, usually in mid-August).

_{The Congress Ave Bridge, with arches underneath, at dusk. The arches are lit by red spotlights. Hundreds of people gather on the bridge and in the foreground under the bridge. A small area of the river is seen under the bridge, and Austin city skyline behind. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

South Congress Shops

If you enjoy poking around quirky shops, South Congress Avenue is a fun destination. Many of the buildings are historical, so wheelchair access varies from shop to shop. Throughout Austin, there are some really cool destinations in really old buildings–so sometimes accessibility is limited.

If you like vintage shops, several shops also offered brochures listing all of the vintage shops in town.

There are also many cool art studios and shops to explore throughout Austin.

Murals

Scattered throughout Austin are some iconic murals. If you are looking for a fun photo op, these are definitely worth the stop. There are always fellow bystanders willing to snap a picture of you (and they may ask you to take one in return).

One of the most iconic is the Greetings from Austin mural, on 1st Street, and it was the one we knew we didn’t want to miss!

_{A mural with appearance of a vintage postcard reads in script, “Greetings from;” large block letters filled with images of Austin landmarks reading, “Austin;” and at the bottom right of the mural, “Capitol of Texas.” The mural is colorful, with a predominant red, white, and blue color scheme. The author (wearing a navy and white gingham sleeveless dress, red sneaker, red sunglasses, and ponytail) poses with her husband (wearing navy button-down shirt and shorts, and gray sneakers) on the left side of the mural. Photo credit: Livable by Design}

Ann and Roy Butler Hike-and-Bike Trail

If you’re looking to get just a little away from the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy a peaceful stroll, you might want to check out the Ann and Roy Butler Hike-and-Bike Trail that runs along the river from downtown Austin. There are multiple access points along the trail–some with ramp access, some with winding stairs. Once down on the trail, the path is wide and made of fine crushed gravel.

You can wind your way along the river’s path with fellow walkers and joggers, enjoy the coolness of being close to the water, the greenery, and the occasional (or frequent) massive cactus. If you’re a northerner like we are, cactus sightings are something to get excited about!

_{A golden-colored trail runs along a river, with Austin cityscape seen across the water. Several runners and bikers are seen along the path, and low trees grow beside a post fence along the river. Photo Credit: Mellow Johnny’s Bike Shop}

There are literally dozens of other activities to enjoy both in and around Austin. If you’ve visited for yourself, what are your top must-see places? I’d love to hear more about what you enjoyed!

Happy travels, y’all!